Bruno Giacometto
With centuries of family history in the historic town of Caluso, in the heart of the DOCG, Bruno Giacometto was born in the vineyards. Winemaking was one, essential piece of the agrarian puzzle that was life in Piedmont. In 1977, when he was 16, Bruno convinced his father to try anew technique generating remarkable results across the region. Instead of leaving their white grapes in contact with the skins for a few days as had been the tradition, Bruno begged him to make a white with no skin contact. The results were immediately satisfying, giving rise to floral, crisp, silky yet refreshing wines.
In 2001, Bruno took over running the family winery with the goal of making exceptional Erbaluce and hasn’t looked back, regularly winning accolades for his wine, in particular his remarkable “Autoctono” bottling made from a selection of grapes. Recently retired from the IT industry, Bruno now enjoys puttering around his vineyards and his small but highly functional cellar full time. As he says, he never married because Erbaluce is the great love of his life. In 2016, Giacometto began the process of converting to organic farming. His first organic-certified wines will emerge with the release of the 2021 vintages. He produces Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG, Spumante Metodo Classico Brut and Rose’, Caluso Passito DOCG, Canavese DOC Rosso, Canavese DOC Nebbiolo, and tiny amounts of Canavese DOC Rosato.
Erbaluce, a thick-skinned, high-acid, white grape variety native to the northernmost Alto Piemonte, where rolling hills composed of glacial moraine rest at the feet of the French Alps. Erbaluce di Caluso was Piedmont’s first official white-wine appellation, formalized as a DOC in 1967 and subsequently elevated to DOCG status in 2010. The DOCG encompasses only Erbaluce grown in the zone of Caluso, “where the best Erbaluce wines in Italy are made, ”according to Wine Scholar Ian D’Agata. Caluso is located on a hillside sitting at an average of 340 meters a.s.l. where conditions are ideal for this highly characteristic, indigenous grape variety, cultivated here for thousands of years. Sandy, stony, morainic soils originating from the nearby massif of Mont Blanc impart minerality, brilliant acidity, and sapidity. For those yet to discover the ancient grape, Erbaluce is derived from two words: dawn (“alba,” which became “erba” over time) and light (“luce”). Its name alludes to the milky-white color of the grape but has also been attributed to a local legend surrounding Albaluce, an Ancient-Roman-era sprite who blessed the townspeople of Caluso with this precious fruit. A highly productive grape, it is traditionally grown on trellises to better control yields, structures called pergola that are also particularly good at protecting the grapes from the scorching summer sun of today’s changing climate.
The Giacometto family has been a part of the fabric of this remote territory for generations. Around 1920, Bruno’s grandfather Gioachino returned from the First World War and began to expand the wine cellar and increase his vineyard holdings. Azienda Vitivinicola Giacometto was officially founded in 1962 by Bruno's parents, Giuseppe and Nella, when they bottled their first vintage. Bruno, born in 1961, took over the winery in 2001 and renovated the wine cellar in 2006. Today, Giacometto’s vineyards are divided into various plots containing many old vines around 40-50 years old, younger ones around 15-20 years old and some more recent plantings.
About 20% of his vineyards are planted to Nebbiolo with small parcels of Barbera, Neretto di Bairo, Freisa, Merlot and, since 2020, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Nonetheless, the lion’s share of his production from six hectares is about 70% Erbaluce. His entry-level Erbaluce easily distinguishes itself as more than just a quaffable Pinot Grigio substitute. Beyond demonstrating the classic qualities of this northern grape, with green apple, unripe nectarine and brilliant acidity, this white wine has a silken, ethereal texture and layers of complexity. Vinified in stainless steel on its own yeasts, about 12,000 bottles have been produced annually. Fortunately, four hectares of new vineyards are coming into production and bottles produced can grow slightly in the near future. As of 2021, this wine is certified organic.
The jewel of Giacometto’s production might be his Erbaluce “Autoctono.” An ode to Erbaluce, he sought to produce the best white wine he could ethrough special selection of grape bunches in the vineyard and extended contact with the fine lees with spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. He wanted to name the wine “Autoctono” to highlight the autochthonous, meaning native or indigenous, nature of this unique, northern Piedmontese grape, but the regulations of the DOCG wouldn’t allow it. So, he wrote it in Greek, substituting the penultimate letter with an infinity sign. A mathematical brain with the soul of an artist, Bruno was not about to have his creativity compromised. A creamy, salty, textural wine with sweet lemon curd, green apple and savory herbs all balanced on the razor’s edge of Erbaluce’s naturally intense acidity, this is a singular bottling.
Being the dedicated traditionalist that he is, Giacometto would be remiss to not produce a metodo classico Erbaluce Spumante. With its searing acidity and productive nature, Erbaluce is particularly suited to making sparkling wines. That fresh backbone is evident in the Spumante Brut, the result of more than 6 years of aging on the lees before disgorgement. Delicate yet creamy, crisp yet fleshy, aromatic with white blossoms and brioche, this zero dosage bottling finishes zesty and vibrant.
His Canavese Nebbiolo is a melange of the classic Langhe clones Michet and Lampia along with the classic Picotener clone of northern Piedmont and the Valle d’Aosta, grown in a single 2.5-hectare vineyard. The wine sits on its skins for about 15-20 days before being racked off to naturally complete fermentation, after which it will be transferred to a single, 25HL barrel where it will age until considered ready for bottling, typically around six years. Sweet aromas of rose and raspberry are balanced by savory tones of bay leaf and eucalyptus, hints of porcini mushrooms and coffee.
Bruno’s philosophy is to produce quality wine by working carefully in the vineyard, respecting the soil, and eschewing the use of herbicides and chemical fertilizers. Integrating grasses, flowers, and legumes into the ground enhances soil health, while natural substances like citrus oils or teas are employed to control diseases and pests. Giacometto has been certified organic since 2019 by ICEA.
